Skip to main content

Full text of "Wearables"

See other formats

Natural Dyeing 101 


Make Projects 

build, hack, tweak, share, discover. 

Natural Dyeing 101 

Written By: Judith Lange 



available as a mineral powder, or use an aluminum pot. 

Water (4 gal) 

Distilled or purified water is preferable. 

Natural Fiber (1/2 lb) 

such as wool, or something like a pair of wool socks. 

Onionskins (1/2 lb) 

yellow and/ or red. Ask your friendly grocer if you can scavenge through the bottoms of 

the onion bins. 


Imagine a world with no colored fabric. Look in your closet, at your furniture, at your towels 
and your curtains. Imagine everyone dressed only in white. Such a drab existence does not 
suit human beings. Long before Rit came in packets, color was everywhere. Beautiful colors 
were produced from plants, wood scraps, mud, shellfish, and even bugs. 

My friends and I once spent an entire summer experimenting with natural dyes. It was a fun 
way to bring more color into our lives; it's sure to be the same for you. Many natural sources 
of dye are still available today and are simple to use. In this tutorial, I'll show you how to dye 
wool using the ubiquitous onionskin. This is a grand project for adults and children, singly or 

© Make Projects Page 1 of 1 1 

Natural Dyeing 101 

in groups (supervise children!). 

© Make Projects Page 2 of 1 1 

Natural Dyeing 101 

Step 1 — Mordants pump up the color. 

© Make Projects Page 3 of 1 1 

Natural Dyeing 101 

• Besides natural dyes, mordants 
were used from very early times. 

• Mordants help the dye molecules 
bond to the fiber and offer a richer 
color. In other words, mordants 
help your material to hold the dye 
and intensify the color. 

• Common examples (and suggested 
amounts) include: 

• Copper (2/3oz per lb of fiber): 

Use as copper sulfate, or use a 
copper pot (1st on the right). 

• Chrome (1/2oz per lb of fiber): 

Use as potassium chromate. When 
using chrome, please note: 
WARNING! TOXIC! Handle with 
care (2nd from the right). 

• Iron (1/2oz per lb of fiber): 

Available as iron sulfate or rust, or 
use an iron pot, such as a cast iron 
Dutch oven (3rd from the right). 

• Tin (2/3oz per lb of fiber): 

Available as tin chloride (4th from 
the right). 

• Alum (2oz per lb of fiber): 

Available as a mineral powder, or 
use an aluminum pot (5th from the 

• You can get many good colors 
using only alum, which is safe to 
work with and readily available in 
the spice section of grocery stores. 

© Make Projects 

Page 4 of 1 1 

Natural Dyeing 101 

Step 2 — Mordant use. 

• The angora goats are the source of the wool I dye. 

• Use a mordant before, during, or after the dyeing process. 

• Pre-mordant — Dissolve the mordant in 4gal of water (for 11b. of fiber), add the fiber you'll 
be dyeing, and simmer for 1/2-1 hour. You can then put your fiber directly in the dye pot or 
you can dry it and do your dyeing later. 

• Mordant during dyeing — Add the mordant to the dye pot along with the dye. Heat to 
dissolve, add your fiber, and continue heating (at a simmer) for 1/2-1 hour. This is 
considered to be less effective than pre-mordanting. 

• Post-mordant — Simmer water, dye the fiber for 1/2-1 hour, then add the mordant and 
simmer for another 1/2 hour. 

• NOTE: Unless you are deliberately using an aluminum or iron pot to mordant, use enamel 
or stainless steel so as not to contaminate the dye. 

© Make Projects 

Page 5 of 1 1 

Natural Dyeing 101 

Step 3 — Learn the basic dye recipe for plant or animal fiber. 

• For a dye bath for 1/2lb of plant or animal fiber: 

• Use about 4gal of water. (If your water has a high mineral content, it may alter the color of 
the dye. If you care about this, use bottled or distilled water.) 

• Add dye matter. Formulas are available online and in many excellent books on natural 
dyeing (see Resources in Step 10). If experimenting, start with equal weights of dye and 

• Note: WARNING! Once you use a pan for dyeing, don't use it for cooking. You can't be 
sure all plants and minerals are safe. 

• Simmer the pot for 1/2 hour or so to release the color from the plant material, then remove 
the plant matter. If you leave the plant material in the pot with your fiber, the color may be 
uneven. If you like variegated color, leave the plant material in! 

• Add pre-mordanted fiber and simmer 1/2-1 hour. Let stand overnight, or remove the fiber 
at this point. 

• NOTE: It's impossible to color-match plant dyes. The plants you're using may grow in 
different soil, weather, and water conditions, and there may be a number of varieties within 
the species. Fibers also take dyes differently. 

© Make Projects 

Page 6 of 1 1 

Natural Dyeing 101 

Step 4 — Dye your yarn with onionskins. 

• So much for the generalities. Now let's dye wool yarn with onionskins (yellow and red 

• Mordant the wool in an enamel pot containing 1-2oz of alum dissolved in 2gal of water. 
Our actual weight of fiber is 1/2lb. Simmer for 1/2 hour. Let cool in the liquid, then proceed 
to dyeing, or let the fiber dry and dye at a later time. You can reuse this water for 
mordanting more fiber (but not for dyeing). 

• To prepare the dye pot, place 1/2lb onionskins in 2gal of simmering water for 1/2-1 hour. 
Remove the onionskins, if desired, and then add the mordanted wool (wet or dry) and 
simmer another 1/2-1 hour. 

• Alternatively, place the onionskins and the mordanted wool in 2gal of simmering water, and 
simmer 1/2-1 hour. (Skins can be placed in a net bag if desired.) 

• NOTE: This same procedure can be used for many protein fibers, including wool, mohair, 
alpaca, llama, rabbit, and dog, and also for most dyes on cotton and linen. 

• Try other dyes to achieve different colors, such as madder for red and eucalyptus leaves 
for brown. Yellows, browns, and reds are easy to get, but blues from indigo and woad are 
more complicated. Many books will suggest different plants to dye with. We did 
experiments with 50 plants in a summer; Ida Grae's book Nature's Colors lists 250. See 
the next page for more natural dyeing materials. 

• TIP: The fibers don't need to be white; interesting colors come from naturally colored fibers 
and from overdyeing previously dyed things. 

• NOTE: If you are a more casual type of "cook," play my favorite "what if" game, and just 
throw a bunch of fiber, a bunch of onionskins, and a tablespoon or so of alum together and 
go with it! Play and see what happens. 

© Make Projects 

Page 7 of 1 1 

Natural Dyeing 101 

Step 5 — Rinse and dry. 

• Lift your fiber out of the pot, or 
drain the liquid off. 

• Rinse the newly dyed fiber with 
water that's about the same 
temperature as the liquid you took 
it out of. Rinse off the excess dye 
until the water runs clear. Do not 
agitate the wool. 

• Air dry (don't use a hot dryer!). 
Now you're done. Enjoy! 

Step 6 — Variations. 

0-, M H> 

A *' 

Mordant some yarn with alum, and some with iron. Then dye them both with onionskins. 
You will now have 2 colors to work with. If you put more than one color or type of fiber 
through the same process together, you will have several colors to use together. A vast 
array of colors can be achieved by overdyeing one color over another, and by using 
different mordants. Your options are endless. Have fun! 

© Make Projects 

Page 8 of 1 1 

Natural Dyeing 101 

Step 7 — Dyes to Try. 

• Good yellows — onionskins with alum 

• Oranges — coreopsis and onionskins, dahlias with tin and iron 

• Greens — somewhat difficult to get without overdyeing. Overdye a yellow with indigo. Try 
using copper or iron as a mordant, which produce an olive green with some natural dyes. 

• Rich browns — walnut hulls, eucalyptus leaves 

• Reds — madder, cochineal bugs 

• Brilliant yellows — lichens, safflowers 

Step 8 — How water can change your result. 

• The 2 skeins on the left were dyed 
using well water that contained 
iron, along with onionskins and an 
alum mordant. The roving on the 
right was dyed using the same 
process, but with distilled water. 

© Make Projects 

Page 9 of 1 1 

Natural Dyeing 101 

Step 9 — Dyeing throughout history. 

• Natural dyeing was a common profession through much of history, and in Europe, the 
dyers of red cloth were literally in a class by themselves. 

• Woad was used by Celtic warriors to paint their bodies blue to scare their enemies. In wool 
and weaving industries, woad was used as a dye fiber. It became a major crop in medieval 
Europe, and later in colonial America. 

• Indigo, grown in India for 4,000 years, gave a more intense dye but was much more 
expensive. It was banned from Europe to protect woad farmers. 

• Red, the color of royalty was not available to ordinary folks because of its rarity and cost. 
Madder roots, which give a strong red, became a main source of wealth in Europe during 
the Middle Ages. At its peak in the 1800s, world production was 70,000 tons, with Britain 
spending £1 ,000,000 a year to import a third of the total. Redcoats, anyone? 

• Cochineal, from a Mexican insect used by the Aztecs, was a major source of income for 
the Spanish after they conquered Mexico. They exported the bugs to Europe for brilliant 

© Make Projects 

Page 10 of 11 

Natural Dyeing 101 

Step 10 — Resources 

• My county library has 24 books on natural dyes, with some useful information in all of 
them. These are a few favorites: 

• Nature's Colors: Dyes from Plants by Ida Grae, Macmillan Publishing 1974, Collier Books 
1979, Robin & Russ Handweavers 1991, out of print. A very good book. 

• A Dyers Garden: From Plant to Pot, Growing Dyes for Natural Fibers by Rita Buchanan 

• Dye Plants and Dyeing: A Handbook by the Brooklyn Botanic Garden, a special printing of 
Brooklyn Botanic Garden Record: Plants and Gardens Vol. 2, 1969. I have the 9th printing, 

This project first appeared in CRAFT Volume 04 , pages 148-154. 

This document was last generated on 2012-11-03 02:39:51 AM. 

© Make Projects 

Page 1 1 of 1 1